Here’s how this works: every day leading up to the Oscars, I break down each of the 24 categories. The goal is to both familiarize everyone with the category itself (how it works, what its history is and how you go about figuring out what’s gonna win) while also making it easier to reference when I write my giant article with picks and everything. A lot of the leg work is already here. But really, the goal is to see if there’s anything to look for leading into Oscar night that could be a shortcut to me picking the category.
What we do is — I give you all the winners of the category throughout history, go over all the recent trends if there are any, discuss the precursors and whether or not they matter, and then we talk about this year’s category and how we got to it, and then just look at where we are and rank the nominees in terms of their likelihood of winning (at the current moment in time. Of course, things can and will change going into the ceremony). It’s all pretty simple. I’ve done this every year. Everyone should know the drill.
Today is Best Costume Design. AKA This Is Not a Frill.
Year | Best Costume Design Winners | Other Nominees |
1948 | Black and White: Hamlet
Color: Joan of Arc |
Black and White: B.F.’s Daughter
Color: The Emperor Waltz |
1949 | Black and White: The Heiress
Color: Adventures of Don Juan |
Black and White: Prince of Foxes
Color: Mother is a Freshman |
1950 | Black and White: All About Eve
Color: Samson and Delilah |
Black and White: Born Yesterday
The Magnificent Yankee Color: The Black Rose That Forsythe Woman |
1951 | Black and White: A Place in the Sun
Color: An American in Paris |
Black and White: Kind Lady
The Model and the Marriage Broker The Mudlark A Streetcar Named Desire Color: David and Bathsheba The Great Caruso Quo Vadis? The Tales of Hoffmann |
1952 | Black and White: The Bad and the Beautiful
Color: Moulin Rouge |
Black and White: Affair in Trinidad
Carrie My Cousin Rachel Sudden Fear Color: The Greatest Show on Earth Hans Christian Andersen The Merry Widow |
1953 | Black and White: Roman Holiday
Color: The Robe |
Black and White: The Actress
Dream Wife From Here to Eternity The President’s Lady Color: The Band Wagon Call Me Madam How to Marry a Millionaire |
1954 | Black and White: Sabrina
Color: Gate of Hell |
Black and White: The Earrings Of Madame de…
Executive Suite Indiscretion of an American Wife It Should Happen To You Color: Brigadoon Désirée A Star is Born There’s No Business Like Show Business |
1955 | Black and White: I’ll Cry Tomorrow
Color: Love Is a Many-Splendored Thing |
Black and White: The Pickwick Papers
Queen Bee The Rose Tattoo Ugetsu Color: Guys and Dolls Interrupted Melody To Catch a Thief The Virgin Queen |
1956 | Black and White: The Solid Gold Cadillac
Color: The King and I |
Black and White: Seven Samurai
The Power and the Prize The Proud and the Profane Teenage Rebel Color: Around the World in 80 Days Giant The Ten Commandments War and Peace |
1957 | Les Girls | An Affair to Remember
Funny Face Pal Joey Raintree County |
1958 | Gigi | Bell, Book and Candle
The Buccaneer A Certain Smile Some Came Running |
1959 | Black and White: Some Like It Hot
Color: Ben-Hur |
Black and White: Career
The Diary of Anne Frank The Gazebo The Young Philadelphians Color: The Best of Everything The Big Fisherman The Five Pennies Porgy and Bess |
1960 | Black and White: The Facts of Life
Color: Spartacus |
Black and White: Never on Sunday
The Rise and Fall of Legs Diamond Seven Thieves The Virgin Spring Color: Can-Can Midnight Lace Pepe Sunrise at Campobello |
1961 | Black and White: La Dolce Vita
Color: West Side Story |
Black and White: The Children’s Hour
Claudell Inglish Judgment at Nuremberg Yojimbo Color: Babes in Toyland Back Street Flower Drum Song Pocketful of Miracles |
1962 | Black and White: What Ever Happened to Baby Jane?
Color: The Wonderful World of the Brothers Grimm |
Black and White: Days of Wine and Roses
The Man Who Shot Liberty Valance The Miracle Worker Phaedra Color: Bon Voyage! Gypsy The Music Man My Geisha |
1963 | Black and White: 8 ½
Color: Cleopatra |
Black and White: Love with the Proper Stranger
The Stripper Toys in the Attic Wives and Lovers Color: The Cardinal How the West Was Won The Leopard A New Kind of Love |
1964 | Black and White: The Night of the Iguana
Color: My Fair Lady |
Black and White: A House is Not a Home
Hush… Hush, Sweet Charlotte Kisses for My President The Visit Color: Becket Mary Poppins The Unsinkable Molly Brown What a Way to Go! |
1965 | Black and White: Darling
Color: Doctor Zhivago |
Black and White: Morituri
A Rage to Live Ship of Fools The Slender Thread Color: The Agony and the Ecstasy The Greatest Story Ever Told Inside Daisy Clover The Sound of Music |
1966 | Black and White: Who’s Afraid of Virginia Woolf?
Color: A Man for All Seasons |
Black and White: The Gospel According to St. Matthew
Mandragola Mister Buddwing Morgan! Color: Gambit Hawaii Juliet of the Spirits The Oscar |
1967 | Camelot | Bonnie and Clyde
The Happiest Millionaire The Taming of the Shrew Thoroughly Modern Millie |
1968 | Romeo and Juliet | The Lion in Winter
Oliver! Planet of the Apes Star! |
1969 | Anne of the Thousand Days | Hello, Dolly!
Gaily, Gaily Sweet Charity They Shoot Horses, Don’t They? |
1970 | Cromwell | Airport
Darling Lili The Hawaiians Scrooge |
1971 | Nicholas and Alexandra | Bedknobs and Brooksticks
Death in Venice Mary, Queen of Scots What’s the Matter with Helen? |
1972 | Travels with My Aunt | The Godfather
Lady Sings the Blues The Poseidon Adventure Young Winston |
1973 | The Sting | Cries and Whispers
Ludwig Tom Sawyer The Way We Were |
1974 | The Great Gatsby | Chinatown
Daisy Miller The Godfather Part II Murder on the Orient Express |
1975 | Barry Lyndon | The Four Musketeers
Funny Lady The Magic Flute The Man Who Would Be King |
1976 | Fellini’s Casanova | Bound for Glory
The Incredible Sarah The Passover Plot The Seven-Per-Cent Solution |
1977 | Star Wars | Airport ‘77
Julia A Little Ngiht Music The Other Side of the Mountain |
1978 | Death on the Nile | Caravans
Days of Heaven The Swarm The Wiz |
1979 | All That Jazz | Agatha
La cage aux folles Butch and Sundance:: The Early Years The Europeans |
1980 | Tess | The Elephant Man
My Brilliant Career Somewhere in Time When Time Ran Out |
1981 | Chariots of Fire | The French Lieutenant’s Woman
Pennies from Heaven Ragtime Reds |
1982 | Gandhi | Sophie’s Choice
La Traviata Tron Victor Victoria |
1983 | Fanny and Alexander | Cross Creek
Heart Like a Wheel The Return of Martin Guerre Zelig |
1984 | Amadeus | 2010
The Bostonians A Passage to India Places in the Heart |
1985 | Ran | The Color Purple
The Journey of Natty Gann Out of Africa Prizzi’s Honor |
1986 | A Room with a View | The Mission
Otello Peggy Sue Got Married Pirates |
1987 | The Last Emperor | The Dead
Empire of the Sun Maurice The Untouchables |
1988 | Dangerous Liaisons | Coming to America
A Handful of Dust Sunset Tucker: The Man and His Dream |
1989 | Henry V | The Adventures of Baron Munchausen
Driving Miss Daisy Harlem Nights Valmont |
1990 | Cyrano de Bergerac | Avalon
Dances with Wolves Dick Tracy Hamlet |
1991 | Bugsy | The Addams Family
Barton Fink Hooks Madame Bovary |
1992 | Bram Stoker’s Dracula | Enchanted April
Howards End Malcolm X Toys |
1993 | The Age of Innocence | Orlando
The Piano The Remains of the Day Schindler’s List |
1994 | The Adventures of Priscilla, Queen of the Desert | Bullets over Broadway
Little Women Maverick Queen Margot |
1995 | Restoration | Braveheart
Richard III Sense and Sensibility 12 Monkeys |
1996 | The English Patient | Angels and Insects
Emma Hamlet The Portrait of a Lady |
1997 | Titanic | Amistad
Kundun Oscar and Lucinda The Wings of the Dove |
1998 | Shakespeare in Love | Beloved
Elizabeth Pleasantville Velvet Goldmine |
1999 | Topsy-Turvy | Anna and the King
Sleepy Hollow The Talented Mr. Ripley Titus |
2000 | Gladiator | 102 Dalmatians
Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon How the Grinch Stole Christmas Quills |
2001 | Moulin Rouge! | The Affair of the Necklace
Gosford Park Harry Potter and the Sorcerer’s Stone The Lord of the Rings: The Fellowship of the Ring |
2002 | Chicago | Frida
Gangs of New York The Hours The Pianist |
2003 | The Lord of the Rings: The Return of the King | Girl with a Pearl Earring
The Last Samurai Master and Commander: The Far Side of the World Seabiscuit |
2004 | The Aviator | Finding Neverland
Lemony Snicket’s A Series of Unfortunate Events Ray Troy |
2005 | Memoirs of a Geisha | Charlie and the Chocolate Factory
Mrs. Henderson Presents Pride & Prejudice Walk the Line |
2006 | Marie Antoinette | Curse of the Golden Flower
The Devil Wears Prada Dreamgirls The Queen |
2007 | Elizabeth: The Golden Age | Across the Universe
Atonement La Vie en Rose Sweeney Todd: The Demon Barber of Fleet Street |
2008 | The Duchess | Australia
The Curious Case of Benjamin Buttin Milk Revolutionary Road |
2009 | The Young Victoria | Bright Star
Coco Before Chanel The Imaginarium of Dr. Parnassus Nine |
2010 | Alice in Wonderland | I Am Love
The King’s Speech The Tempest True Grit |
2011 | The Artist | Anonymous
Hugo Jane Eyre W.E. |
2012 | Anna Karenina | Les Misérables
Lincoln Mirror Mirror Snow White and the Huntsman |
2013 | The Great Gatsby | American Hustle
The Grandmaster The Invisible Woman 12 Years a Slave |
2014 | The Grand Budapest Hotel | Inherent Vice
Into the Woods Maleficent Mr. Turner |
2015 | Mad Max: Fury Road | Carol
Cinderella The Danish Girl The Revenant |
2016 | Fantastic Beasts and Where to Find Them | Allied
Florence Foster Jenkins Jackie La La Land |
2017 | Phantom Thread | Beauty and the Beast
Darkest Hour The Shape of Water Victoria & Abdul |
2018 | Black Panther | The Ballad of Buster Scruggs
The Favourite Mary Poppins Returns Mary Queen of Scots |
It’s a tech guild, so we’ve got the guild, BAFTA and BFCA to look at The guild is CDG, and here’s them historically vs. the Oscars:
- 2018: Black Panther won Fantasy and won the Oscar.
- 2017, The Shape of Water won Period and lost the Oscar to Phantom Thread.
- 2016… this was one of the few times CDG was way off. Hidden Figures won Period and wasn’t nominated for the Oscar. Doctor Strange won Fantasy and also wasn’t nominated. La La Land won Contemporary and lost the Oscar. (Fantastic Beasts won.)
- 2015, Mad Max: Fury Road won Fantasy and won the Oscar.
- 2014, The Grand Budapest Hotel won period and won the Oscar.
- 2013, 12 Years a Slave won Period and lost the Oscar to Great Gatsby.
- 2012, Anna Karenina won Period and won the Oscar.
- 2011, W.E. won Period and lost the Oscar to The Artist.
- 2010, Alice in Wonderland won Fantasy and won the Oscar.
- 2009, The Young Victoria won Period and won the Oscar.
- 2008, The Duchess won Period and won the Oscar.
- 2007, Sweeney Todd won Period and lost the Oscar to Elizabeth: The Golden Age.
- 2006, Curse of the Golden Flower won Period and lost the Oscar to Marie Antoinette.
- 2005, Memoirs of a Geisha won Period and won the Oscar.
We can’t go earlier than 2005 for any reliable information. But, from what we have here, they’re 8/14, which is solid enough.
Here are BAFTA’s winners in those years:
- 2018, The Favourite
- 2017, Phantom Thread
- 2016, Jackie
- 2015, Mad Max: Fury Road
- 2014, The Grand Budapest Hotel
- 2013, The Great Gatsby
- 2012, Anna Karenina
- 2011, The Artist
- 2010, Alice in Wonderland
- 2009, The Young Victoria
- 2008, The Duchess
- 2007, La Vie en Rose
- 2006, Pan’s Labyrinth
- 2005, Memoirs of a Geisha
They’re 10/14.
BFCA:
- 2018, Black Panther
- 2017, Phantom Thread
- 2016, Jackie
- 2015, Mad Max: Fury Road
- 2014, The Grand Budapest Hotel
- 2013, The Great Gatsby
- 2012, Anna Karenina
- 2011, The Artist
- 2010, Alice in Wonderland
- 2009, The Young Victoria
They’ve only missed once, in 2016. So I think we’re set.
Best Costume Design
The Irishman
Jojo Rabbit
Joker
Little Women
Once Upon a Time in Hollywood
I think I mentioned this when nominations were announced, but this is the first time EVER that the Costumes category is entirely comprised of Best Picture nominees. It’s never happened. And even when there were two Costumes categories for black-and-white and color, there were never five Best Picture nominees between either of them. That’s crazy.
Otherwise, most of this category is as expected. Joker got on without any precursor anywhere, which is extremely rare. Though given the overall support for the film, not that surprising. (Also, it’s Mark Bridges, who won for The Artist and Phantom Thread, so that’s also probably part of it.) Mostly I’m curious as to why the guild didn’t nominate it. I’m guessing that’s a situation where it had to go on Period and not elsewhere and it couldn’t get the votes over other things. Still, no BAFTA, no BFCA either. Weird. But whatever, here we are and really the big talking point for me is 5/5 Best Picture nominees for the first time ever.
Precursors are limited for us. BFCA went off the board and gave their Costume award to Dolemite Is My name, which didn’t get nominated. And at CDG, only two of the Oscar nominees (Jojo and Once Upon a Time in Hollywood) were nominated there. And Jojo won, so at least there’s that. But really, we’ve got like, no help going into BAFTA, and so I’m just gonna guess my way through this and see what BAFTA ends up doing in the end to change our plans. In the end, I don’t suspect my final rankings to be wildly different from this. But hey, one never knows.
Rankings:
5. The Irishman — Saving a BAFTA win, I can’t see how anyone can consider this a major contender for this. You’d think Sandy Powell having done the costumes would be a factor, but she’s been nominated 15 times now and only has three wins to show for it. Granted, one was for The Aviator, but still. These costumes weren’t exactly ‘showy’, and there really hasn’t been a winner where the costumes look as plain as these ones do. I can’t see it happening.
4. Joker — This becomes fourth by default. The big Joker suit is showy enough that it might get some consideration, but the period is the 80s. On that alone, it should probably be considered fifth choice, since outside of fantasy movies (like Black Panther) or the one odd contemporary movie that won (Priscilla, Queen of the Desert), there’s never been anything more recent than the 60s in a long time. It’s hard for me to think they’re suddenly gonna go for something this recent. But hey, one never knows.
3. Once Upon a Time in Hollywood — It’s 1969 Hollywood. It has a chance. However, the costumes aren’t that showy, and while I can see it winning for Production Design, I’m not sure Costumes are also in the cards. It lost the guild, and I’m not expecting it to win BAFTA, but given how flimsy this category could be (unless the obvious winner wins), this feels like it has as good a chance as any at this moment in time.
2. Jojo Rabbit — It’s got the guild win, and since we’re only gonna get two precursors’ worth of help this year, that’s as good as anything. BAFTA will tell the tale, so if this wins, then it becomes top choice. If Once Upon a Time wins, this probably bumps down to #3. Otherwise, we’ll keep this at #2 and see what happens. You’ve got the Hitler costume, the paper suits, Sam Rockwell’s war outfit, everything Scarlett wears (including the shoes), technically those robot outfits… it makes sense as a potential choice. Will it happen? Not sure. Gonna stick with my gut for the moment, though, and say it’s no higher than second choice until it wins BAFTA (and even then, I have questions).
1. Little Women — It’s the most period of the nominees. It’s frills. It’s women in dresses in the 19th century. This is the choice if you’re going by the perceived/standard choice for the category in most years. I have to assume it’s gonna win BAFTA, and am gonna consider it the favorite until it loses there. Nothing particularly feels like the runaway winner at the moment, since I can easily see this getting ignored for votes, but if you’re thinking about how people just looking at this category on a ballot would vote, you have to think most people would say either this or Once Upon a Time. But we’ll see what BAFTA says on Sunday.
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